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Door Ding, Dent, or Crease? How to Price Each in 2026

The same 2026 door panel can hide a $90 fix or a $1,500 fix depending on what hit it. Pricing tiers in dent repair are not arbitrary, they track real labor differences between popping out a shallow round dent in fifteen minutes and rebuilding a creased panel over three hours with rod work, glue-pull, and finish reflection passes. Here is how to read your dent and figure out which tier you are actually in before any shop touches it.

Door dings: $75 to $150 with PDR

A door ding is the cheapest dent category. Dime-sized to quarter-sized, shallow, round, on a standard side panel (door, fender, or quarter), with paint completely intact. The shopping-cart bump in a grocery lot. The neighbor's car door swung into yours in a tight driveway. The acorn that fell from a high branch.

Door dings are pure PDR territory and run $75 to $150 per panel. A mobile tech can finish one in 30 to 60 minutes. A shop will quote the same range and finish in about the same time. The aluminum premium adds 45 percent (Tesla, BMW, F-150), pushing the range to $110 to $220, but the dent stays in the door-ding tier as long as it is shallow and round.

This is the tier where you should never file an insurance claim. The repair cost is well below your deductible plus three years of premium increase. Pay cash, use a mobile PDR tech, and move on. We covered the break-even math in the when to claim insurance guide.

Small dents: $100 to $200 PDR, $275 to $750 with paint

Small dents are larger than a quarter, smaller than a golf ball, and still round or bowl-shaped. The kid threw a baseball that bounced once and tapped the door panel. A flying rock from the freeway. A car door pushed harder than a typical ding. Paint is intact, the dent is shallow, and the panel underneath is not stretched.

PDR pricing for small dents runs $75 to $150 per panel on standard side panels, identical to door dings, because the labor is essentially the same workflow with a slightly bigger rod. The line between door ding and small dent matters more for visual reference than for pricing. Once you cross the small-dent threshold into actual recovered metal volume, the labor curve flattens.

The pricing jump happens when paint cracks. Once chipped clear coat or a paint crack enters the picture, the repair adds $200 to $600 per panel for respray, primer, color match, and clear coat cure. That pushes a small dent from $150 PDR into the $350 to $750 body shop range, a 2x to 5x jump driven entirely by paint status.

If you cannot tell whether the paint is cracked, run the fingernail test. Drag your nail slowly across the dent. If it catches, the paint is compromised and you are in the body shop tier. We covered the full driveway diagnostic in the PDR eligibility guide.

Medium dents: $150 to $400 PDR, $350 to $1,000 with paint

A medium dent is golf-ball-sized. Round, shallow, recoverable. PDR runs $150 to $400 per panel for a clean medium on a standard side panel. The price spread inside the tier reflects panel location: door and fender at the low end, hood and roof at the high end, body-line dents in between.

Aluminum panels push the range to $220 to $580 with the 45 percent multiplier. The Tesla Model 3 door panel that ate a golf ball will quote $220 to $400 at most reputable shops in Berkeley or Walnut Creek, with the high end reflecting the East Bay rent premium. The same dent in Concord quotes $185 to $325 because labor rates are 15 to 25 percent lower.

The body shop tier kicks in if the paint cracked. Golf-ball dents on hoods and roofs frequently bring chipped clear coat, because the panel flex during impact stresses the paint. Medium dent with paint damage runs $350 to $1,000 per panel by the time you add filler, primer, color match, clear coat, and blending into adjacent panels for color consistency.

This is also the tier where insurance math starts to matter. A single medium dent with paint damage that quotes $800 to $1,000 sits right at the break-even line for most deductibles. Get the calculator estimate first, then decide.

Large or creased dents: $300 to $800 PDR, $500 to $1,400 with paint

Large dents are baseball-sized or include a visible crease running through them. A crease is the giveaway, a sharp line where the metal folded under impact rather than dishing in cleanly. Creases run along the dent or across it, and they double the labor time versus a bowl dent of the same width.

PDR on a large or creased dent runs $300 to $800 per panel. The high end of the range reflects creased dents on hood, roof, or aluminum panels, where the tech needs specific creased-dent rods and significantly more time on the reflection. Mobile techs can handle large dents on accessible panels but are slower than a shop because the lighting and reflection setup is harder to manage in a driveway.

With paint damage, large dents jump to $500 to $1,400 per panel because the respray covers a larger area, the clear-coat blending typically pulls in two adjacent panels, and the prep work doubles. This is the tier where two-panel and three-panel jobs become common and where total bills routinely cross $2,000.

The clean line to body-shop-only is when the crease crosses a body line on the panel. The geometry change at the body line resists rod work, the paint over a body line is under tension and cracks easily, and most PDR techs will tell you up front the recovery will telegraph through. A creased dent that crosses a body line typically needs panel replacement or filler, not PDR. Expect $800 to $2,100 once you are in that territory.

Severe or body-line creases: $600 to $1,500 PDR, $800 to $2,100 with paint

Severe dents are multi-dent clusters, body-line creases, or large dents with stretched metal. The hood that took a fallen tree limb. The quarter panel a shopping cart with a load of bottled water slammed into at angle. The door that backed into a concrete bollard.

PDR pricing for severe dents runs $600 to $1,500 per panel, and the range is wider than the lower tiers because the labor varies dramatically by exact damage profile. A severe dent recoverable by an experienced tech in 4 hours is very different from one that needs glue-pull workflow on top of rod work and runs 8 hours. In the three questions for body shops guide we covered why technician experience matters most in this tier: a 10-year PDR tech will recover dents a 5-year tech cannot.

With paint damage or stretched metal, you are firmly into body shop territory at $800 to $2,100 per panel. Multi-panel severe damage on a hood, roof, and quarter combination runs $3,000 to $5,000 before insurance. This is the tier where filing an insurance claim makes mathematical sense for most drivers.

The line where PDR is no longer possible at all sits inside the severe tier. Stretched metal that visibly waves, paint pulled at the dent center, or rust at the edge means the panel either gets replaced or filled and painted. A reputable shop will tell you up front when PDR is off the table.

Common questions

How do I know if my dent crosses a body line?

Look at your door panel from the side. Most modern vehicles have a horizontal crease (the body line) running the length of the door, dividing the upper and lower halves visually. If the dent crosses that line, the labor and pricing both jump. Body-line dents are the hardest geometry for PDR because the metal at the line is under tension and resists rod work. If your dent touches or crosses the line, expect the next pricing tier up regardless of dent size. Get the calculator estimate with the door-edge or body-line location selected.

What is the difference between a ding and a dent?

The terms are used loosely, but in the industry a ding is dime-to-quarter-sized and shallow. A dent is larger or deeper. Door dings are the cheapest tier at $75 to $150 PDR. Small dents start at the same range and climb. The distinction matters less than the size-and-paint combination you actually have. Use the four pricing tiers (door ding, small, medium, large, severe) and the paint status to get the right range. The calculator handles the math once you know your tier.

When does PDR stop being an option entirely?

Three situations rule out PDR. First, broken paint, even a hairline crack. The fingernail test catches this in seconds. Second, stretched metal where the panel visibly waves or the paint at the dent center looks pulled. The metal is past the point a rod can recover. Third, dents on previously repaired panels where the original filler will telegraph through the new repair. In all three cases, you are headed to a body shop with paint, which adds $200 to $600 per panel over the equivalent PDR job. Run the calculator with paint damage set to yes for a realistic body shop range.


Ready to price your specific dent? Run the calculator for a 2026 estimate tailored to your size, panel, paint, and panel count. Or browse local dent repair cost guides for your metro.